12 Years Ago I Moved Back to Vienna...

June 1st. My anniversary of living in Vienna for the second time. I lived in Vienna for 4 years as a teenager and I was not a big fan. But of course I met an Austrian and 12 years ago we moved to Wien. It was not an easy adjustment. I gave up, what I like to think, a potentially incredible career in fashion. Left the comfort of Toronto and its great Dim Sum and with two suitcases, moved into an apartment in the 10th district. When the Husband told me that he lived in the 10th district, I said "No idea where that is." Back in the 90s I lived in the 18th and 19th districts; we lived in a house overlooking the vineyards, with  Kahlenberg in the distance and with a lovely garden in the back. I assumed the 10th would be just as nice and ha ha ha. No. Now, I have nothing but love for the 10th district but it was definitely not the Vienna I knew from my angsty teenage years. The first few years after moving back, I would come home almost daily in tears after being propositioned by seedy men. It was always a bustling and eclectic area and I missed my vineyards. Over time I came to appreciate the 10th and I still will defend it even after a couple of years in the 4th district now.

Districts are important to people in Vienna. I remember so many instances of people asking where I lived and when I said "the 10th", their eyes would cloud over and they would lose interest. It's like a weird calling card and it amuses me. And the snob in me loves now saying "In the 4th! ON A PARK, BITCHES!" I am nothing if not a shrinking and modest flower. The adjustment to Vienna was hard in a lot of ways. None of my friends were still in Vienna and I didn't have a job and my German was awful. The first couple of months I spent watching terrible German soap operas: Gute Zeiten, Schlechte Zeiten. I wandered the streets and visited museums but I was lonely and unhappy. Eventually I got a job at Berlitz and I taught English... badly. It was a great way to meet people and to learn more about the city and the people. I am happy to say that I am still friends with some of my former students because I am adorable. Again, so modest. I did a couple of years teaching while having absolutely no knowledge of grammar. No, like really, I was awful:

"Tova, what is the past participle?"
"Well, that's a wonderful question. How about we make that your homework and next time you can present it for the class." Ha ha, sucks to be you, over eager student. That'll learn you.

Sigh. After that, I ended up working for my friend's dad, archiving an art collection. It was fascinating stuff and I did that for about a year! After a few months of unemployment, I was finally offered a job at a paper company. I stupidly assumed that this would be a stepping stone into a better career but alas, it was not. I was let go after 2 years and then got pregnant because being on the dole and being knocked up = life goals. When the Kid was about 11 months old, through someone I knew, I was able to get a job where I still remain 4 years later. I have met great friends here and I laugh daily... because I am witty. Just this morning, we discovered a lost intern on her first day of work. We brought her to our floor so we could look up her new supervisor on the Intranet and then I said "Ha! You are ours now! Muhahaha!" and then after a few awkward seconds, she laughed too... Probably just out of politeness. My friends didn't let me keep her because they are mean and don't let me be me.

I have had incredible experiences in this city. And terrible experiences. I have cried and I have laughed and I have screamed and I have danced. I have been to balls, and I have hiked in the Alps, I have traveled to Greece and France and Italy and England and America and Spain and Tunisia and Croatia and so many other places, and I have slept in castles, and seen villages that are post card perfect. I have even petted a cow and once electrocuted myself and a horse (we are both fine). I have spun on hillsides channeling Maria Von Trapp. I have lost friends and have made friends. I have grieved and I have seen friends fall in love and have seen them become parents. I gave birth to a beautiful little boy and had to see him regress and lose interest in everything he used to love and now have seen him slowly come back to it all. I have navigated the archaic system regarding special needs and I have worked hard to change it. I have met celebrities and I have also been on the radio and in articles. I have written articles and covered Eurovision. I have spent many many evenings in small arched cafes, sitting on terraces and patios, on a blanket in a park, drinking wine. Just a few days ago I crashed a house party and danced to Falco while witnessing lightning flash across the rooftops. I have done so much in the 12 years that I have been here and for that, I am grateful. And yet, I still haven't waltzed at a ball. This continues to be an elusive bucket list item. Dammit! Maybe I'll get lucky at the Concordia Ball...

I never ever expected my life to be the way it is. I feel lucky to live here and to have the community and support that I have. I have struggled and I have triumphed and through it all, I have never lost my love for this city. And so I raise my glass to you Vienna. You fickle temptress. You have bewitched me body and soul (I've been watching a lot of Jane Austen films).
 

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